Slow-Cooked Leek and Herb Fatayer

Ingredients

• For the dough
• Warm water
• 1 1/4 cups (300 ml)
• activates the yeast and hydrates the flour
• Instant yeast
• 2 1/4 teaspoons (7 g)
• gives the dough its light
• bread-like texture
• Granulated sugar
• 1 teaspoon
• helps the yeast get started without making the dough sweet
• All-purpose flour
• 4 cups (500 g)
• plus more only if needed
• forms the soft
• pliable pastry
• Fine sea salt
• 1 1/2 teaspoons
• seasons the dough
• Extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 tablespoons
• plus more for the bowl and brushing
• keeps the dough tender and helps the crust brown
• For the slow-cooked leek filling
• Extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 tablespoons
• carries the aromatics and prevents the leeks from catching
• Large leeks
• 4
• about 2 pounds (900 g) before trimming
• provide the mellow
• sweet main filling
• Yellow onion
• 1 medium
• finely chopped
• adds body and a little natural sweetness
• Garlic
• 3 cloves
• finely chopped
• gives the filling a savory aromatic base
• Fine sea salt
• 1 1/4 teaspoons
• divided
• draws moisture from the vegetables and seasons them
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon
• adds gentle heat
• Ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon
• gives the filling a warm Levantine note
• Ground allspice
• 1/4 teaspoon
• rounds out the spice without taking over
• Water
• 1/3 cup (80 ml)
• creates steam for the covered slow cook
• Flat-leaf parsley
• 1 packed cup
• finely chopped
• brings fresh green flavor
• Fresh dill
• 1/2 packed cup
• finely chopped
• adds a distinctly herbaceous lift
• Fresh cilantro
• 1/2 packed cup
• finely chopped
• gives the filling a bright
• citrusy edge
• Fresh lemon juice
• 2 tablespoons
• balances the softened leeks
• Ground sumac
• 1 tablespoon
• contributes tartness and a subtle Middle Eastern character
• Walnuts
• 1/3 cup (40 g)
• finely chopped
• add a little crunch and keep the filling from feeling one-dimensional
• To finish
• Plain yogurt or labneh
• for serving
• provides a cool
• tangy accompaniment
• Lemon wedges
• for serving
• useful for anyone who wants more acidity

Preparation

Makes 12 fatayer Prep time: 55 minutes, plus 1 hour 15 minutes rising and cooling Cook time: 55 minutes Total time: About 2 hours 50 minutes Difficulty: Moderate weekend project Why this method works Fatayer are usually associated with spinach, but a slow-cooked leek filling suits the cooler months and gives the pastry a gentler, sweeter center. The important part is resisting high heat at the beginning. Leeks can scorch at their thin edges before the thick pieces have softened, so they cook covered over low heat with just enough oil to keep them moving. The lid traps steam, and the final uncovered minutes drive off excess moisture that would otherwise make the dough damp. The dough is soft rather than stiff. That makes it easy to pinch into open triangles, but it also means a very wet filling will cause trouble. Let the leek mixture cool until it is no longer warm, and if it still looks glossy or loose, give it a few extra minutes in the skillet before shaping. Make the dough 1. Stir the warm water, yeast, and sugar together in a large bowl. Leave it for 5 to 10 minutes, until a thin layer of foam appears. If nothing happens, the yeast may be old or the water may have been too hot; start again before adding the flour. 2. Add the flour, salt, and olive oil. Stir with a sturdy spoon until a shaggy dough forms, then knead in the bowl for 2 minutes. Turn it onto a lightly oiled work surface and knead for another 6 to 8 minutes, until smooth and springy. The dough should feel tacky but should not smear across the counter. If it is genuinely sticky, work in flour 1 teaspoon at a time rather than adding a large handful. 3. Shape the dough into a ball and put it in a lightly oiled bowl. Cover with a plate or reusable cover and leave in a draft-free place for 60 to 75 minutes, until nearly doubled. It does not need to be dramatically puffy; a gentle press should leave an impression that slowly fills in. Slow-cook the leek filling 4. While the dough rises, trim the leeks. Split them lengthwise and rinse carefully between the layers, then slice them into thin half-moons. Sand often hides near the root end, and it is easier to wash it out before slicing. Finely chop the onion and garlic, and chop the parsley, dill, and cilantro separately from the vegetables. 5. Warm the olive oil in a wide, heavy skillet over low heat. Add the onion and a small pinch of the salt. Cook for 8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute; it should smell sweet and fragrant, not brown. 6. Add the sliced leeks, the remaining salt, black pepper, cumin, and allspice. Toss well, pour in the water, and cover the skillet. Cook over low heat for 30 to 35 minutes, stirring every 8 to 10 minutes. The leeks will shrink considerably. Keep the heat low enough that the bottom does not catch; add a tablespoon of water if the pan looks dry before the leeks are tender. 7. Remove the lid and cook for 8 to 12 minutes more, stirring often, until the excess liquid has evaporated and the leeks are soft enough to mash lightly with the back of a spoon. Stir in the parsley, dill, cilantro, lemon juice, sumac, and walnuts. Taste for salt and lemon. Transfer the filling to a shallow plate so it cools quickly. It must be cool before it meets the dough. Shape the fatayer 8. Heat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Line two baking sheets with parchment. If using one sheet at a time, keep the remaining shaped pieces covered so their edges do not dry. 9. Deflate the risen dough gently and divide it into 12 equal pieces. A kitchen scale makes this easier; each piece will be roughly 50 to 55 grams. Roll each piece into a ball, cover the balls with a clean towel, and let them rest for 10 minutes. This short rest relaxes the gluten and prevents the rounds from shrinking as you roll them. 10. Roll one ball into a 4 1/2-inch (11-cm) round, keeping the center slightly thicker than the edge. Put 2 generous tablespoons of cooled filling in the middle. Bring three points of dough up around the filling to make a triangle, pinching each seam firmly from the center toward the tip. Leave a little filling visible if you like the traditional open shape, but do not overfill: the seams will split in the oven if they are stretched tight. 11. Set the fatayer on the prepared sheet with a little space between them. Continue with the remaining dough and filling. Press each seam once more just before baking, especially where the three corners meet. If the dough feels sticky, oil your fingertips rather than dusting the pastry heavily with flour. Bake and serve 12. Brush the exposed dough lightly with olive oil. Bake for 13 to 16 minutes, rotating the sheets halfway through if using two oven racks, until the pastry is lightly golden at the edges and firm underneath. The tops may remain fairly pale; waiting for deep color can overbake the bottoms. 13. Let the fatayer cool on the sheets for 5 minutes, then move them to a rack. The filling is very hot and soft straight from the oven, while a short rest lets the pastry settle. Serve warm or at room temperature with plain yogurt, labneh, or a lemony cucumber salad.