Salmon Cabbage Okonomiyaki with Ponzu

Ingredients

• Ingredients
• 450 g skinless salmon fillet
• the main filling
• leftover cooked salmon also works
• 1/2 teaspoon fine salt
• divided
• seasons the salmon and cabbage
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• plus more to finish
• gives the pancake its peppery edge
• 2 teaspoons neutral oil
• plus more as needed
• cooks the salmon and browns the pancakes
• 3 tablespoons water
• creates steam for gently cooking the salmon
• 500 g green cabbage
• very finely shredded
• forms the bulk and tender center of the okonomiyaki
• 4 scallions
• whites and greens separated and thinly sliced
• adds fresh onion flavor at two stages
• 2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger
• brings heat and a clean sharp note
• 3 large eggs
• separated
• yolks bind the batter while whipped whites lighten it
• 120 ml dashi or cold water
• loosens the batter
• dashi adds a savory background
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce
• seasons the batter and deepens its flavor
• 1 tablespoon unseasoned rice vinegar
• adds acidity inside the pancake
• 90 g plain all-purpose flour
• gives the cabbage mixture enough structure to turn
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
• provides a little lift without making the pancake cakey
• 60 ml ponzu
• for serving
• supplies the sharp citrus-soy finish
• 30 g pickled ginger
• finely sliced
• cuts through the salmon and cabbage
• 1/2 teaspoon shichimi togarashi
• or extra black pepper
• adds a final peppery heat

Preparation

Before you start Use a large nonstick skillet or a well-seasoned 26 cm cast-iron pan. The salmon can be steamed in the same pan before the pancakes are cooked, so there is no second cooking vessel to wash. Keep the cabbage fairly dry after shredding; excess water makes the batter loose and slows browning. Method 1. Pat the salmon dry and season it on both sides with 1/4 teaspoon of the salt and a few turns of black pepper. Heat 1 teaspoon of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Put the salmon in, skin-side down if it has skin, and cook for 3 minutes. Add 3 tablespoons of water, cover, and cook for 5 to 7 minutes, until the thickest part is just opaque and flakes when pressed. Transfer the salmon to a plate. Pour off any liquid left in the skillet and wipe the pan clean; do not scrub away every browned spot if you are using cast iron. 2. Let the salmon cool until it is comfortable to handle, then remove the skin and any dark fatty portion. Break the fish into large flakes. Do not mash it into crumbs. Larger pieces stay noticeable inside the pancake and are less likely to disappear into the cabbage. 3. Put the shredded cabbage in a large bowl with the sliced scallion whites, grated ginger, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and the remaining black pepper. Toss with your hands for 30 seconds. This seasons the cabbage and starts to soften it, but do not let it sit for more than a few minutes or it will release too much water. 4. Separate the eggs, putting the whites in a clean, grease-free bowl and the yolks in a smaller bowl. Whisk the yolks with the dashi or water, soy sauce, and rice vinegar. Add the flour and baking powder and whisk just until no dry pockets remain. A few small lumps are harmless; overmixing makes the pancake firm. 5. Using a hand whisk, beat the egg whites until they hold soft peaks. They should look glossy and bend slightly at the tip. Add one-third of the whites to the yolk mixture and stir it in to loosen the batter. Fold in the remaining whites with a spatula in two additions, lifting from the bottom rather than stirring in circles. Stop as soon as the mixture is mostly even. This folding is what keeps the center tender. 6. Pour the batter over the cabbage and scallions. Fold gently until the cabbage is coated. Add the flaked salmon and fold only two or three more times. The mixture will look bulky and slightly ragged, which is right. If it looks wet at the bottom of the bowl, fold in 1 tablespoon more flour. 7. Return the skillet to medium heat and add 1 tablespoon of oil. Spoon in half of the cabbage mixture and shape it into a round about 2 cm thick. Do not press it flat; compacting the cabbage at this point makes the middle dense. Cook for 6 to 8 minutes, adjusting the heat to medium-low if the underside darkens before the edges set. The pancake is ready to turn when the sides look dry and the bottom slides as one piece when nudged. 8. Slide a wide spatula fully underneath the pancake and turn it in one deliberate movement. If a few strands of cabbage escape, push them back against the edge. Cook the second side for 5 to 6 minutes. Cover the skillet for the final 2 minutes so the center cooks through without forcing the outside to brown too far. A thin knife inserted in the center should come out with moist crumbs, not loose batter. Transfer to a plate and keep warm while cooking the second pancake with the remaining oil and mixture. 9. Cut each pancake into four wedges. Drizzle with ponzu just before serving, then add the sliced scallion greens, pickled ginger, and a pinch of shichimi or more black pepper. The ponzu is deliberately added at the end; cooking it in the pan dulls its sharpness and can make the surface wet.